Nei Uchifanira Kuwedzera Lactic, Citric, uye Mamwe Acids kune Yako Ganda-Yekutarisira Regimen

Zvemukati

• Mandelic Acid
• Lactic acid
• Malic Acid
• Azelaic Acid
• Phytic Acid
• Tartaric Acid
• Citric acid
• Best Blends
• Ongororo ye

Pakaunzwa glycolic acid mukutanga kwema1990, yaive shanduko yekutarisira ganda. Inozivikanwa sealpha hydroxy acid (AHA), yaive yekutanga pamusoro-the-counter inoshanda chimedu iwe waigona kushandisa kumba kumhanyisa kufa-ganda-sero kutsvedza uye kuratidza ganda nyoro, rakatsetseka, rakapfava pasi. Gare gare takadzidza kuti chinobva munzimbe chingasimudzirawo kugadzirwa kweganda rako reganda.

Ipapo kwakauya salicylic acid, beta hydroxy acid (BHA) yaigona kunyungudutsa sebum buildup yakadzika mukati me pores uye kuita senge anti-kuzvimba, zvichiita kuti ive yakanaka kune yakatsvuka, yakashatirwa, ganda rine mburwa. (Ona: Is Salicylic Acid Chaizvoizvo Chishamiso Chekushandisa Acne?) Nekuda kweizvozvo, glycolic acid yakava chiyero chegoridhe chekurwisa kuchembera uye salicylic acid yakava anti-acne darling. Izvo zvakaramba zvakanyanya zvisina kuchinjika kusvika nguva pfupi yadarika.

Iye zvino zvimwe zvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda zvine zvidiki-zvinozivikanwa acids senge mandelic, phytic, tartaric, uye lactic. Nei kuwedzerwa? "Ndinofunga nezve glycolic uye salicylic acids sevatambi vanotungamira mumutambo uye aya mamwe maasidhi seanotsigira. Apo vose vanoshanda pamwe chete, vanogona kuvandudza kugadzirwa, "anodaro. Chimiro Brain Trust nhengo Neal Schultz, MD, chiremba weganda weNew York City.

Ava vatambi vanotsigira vanovandudza kushanda kwezvikonzero zviviri. Chekutanga, nepo akawanda acids achibatsira mukubvisa mafuta, "mumwe nemumwe anoita chimwe chinhu chinobatsira paganda," anodaro NYC dermatologist Dennis Gross, MD Izvi zvinosanganisira kuwedzera hydration, kurwisa mahara radicals, uye kubatsira kudzikamisa fomura kuti igare kwenguva yakareba. (Yakabatana: 5 Ganda-Yekutarisira Zvishandiso Zvinobvisa Ganda Risina Rutsigiro uye Zvinokubatsira Kupenya Kubva Mukati) Chikonzero chechipiri ndechekuti kushandisa akawanda maacid pazasi yakadzika (panzvimbo yeimwe pakakwirira) kunogona kuita kuti fomula isanyanye kutsamwisa. "Panzvimbo pekuwedzera asidhi imwe pa20 muzana, ndinosarudza kuwedzera maasidhi mana pa5 muzana kuti ndiwane mhedzisiro yakafanana nemukana muduku wekukonzera hutsvuku," Dr. Gross anodaro. (FYI, musanganiswa wemaasidhi ndiwo mashiripiti ari kuseri kweBaby Foot.)

Saka ndeapi mabhenefiti chaiwo anoitwa nevaya vanokwidza-uye-vanouya? Isu tinoiputsa.

Mandelic Acid

Iyi ndiyo molecule yakakura, saka haipindi mukati meganda zvakadzika. "Izvi zvinoita kuti zvive zvirinani kune mhando dzakaomarara nekuti kupinza kwakadzika kunoreva njodzi yakaderera yekutsamwa," Dr. Gross anodaro. Renée Rouleau, mukurumbira esthetician muAustin, anoti iyi AHA inogona kubatsira "kudzvinyirira kugadzirwa kweakawandisa pigment." Nerimwe bakoat. "Mandelic acid inobatsira kugadzirisa exfoliation uye kudzikisa njodzi yekutsamwa kana ichibatanidzwa neglycolic, lactic, kana salicylic, asi pamwe haina kukwana mutambi wesimba kuti avepo muchigadzirwa chega."

Lactic acid

Yakave iriko kwenguva yakareba - Cleopatra akashandisa mukaka wakashatiswa mumabhati ake kuma40 BCE nekuti mukaka chaiwo lactic acid yakabatsira kubvisa ganda rakaomarara-asi haina kumbobvira yawana mbiri yeglycolic nekuti haina kusimba, inogona kuva chinhu chakanaka. Lactic mamorekuru mahombe, saka ndiyo imwe nzira inoshanda kune yakasarudzika mhando, uye kusiyana nemandelic, ine simba rakaringana kuve mutambi anotungamira mune chigadzirwa. Dr. Gross vanotsanangura kuti lactic acid zvakare inosunga kune yepamusoro chikamu cheganda uye inomukurudzira kugadzira maceramides, ayo anobatsira kuchengetedza hunyoro mukati uye unotsamwisa kunze. (Iwe unogona kunge wakambonzwawo nezve lactic acid maererano nekuneta kwemhasuru uye kupora.)

Malic Acid

Yakapihwa zvakanyanya kubva kumaapuro, iyi AHA inopa zvimwe zvakafanana zvekudzivirira kukwegura seacicic acid, asi "yakanyanya kupfava," anodaro Debra Jaliman, M.D., muNew York City dermatologist. Kana ichiwedzerwa sechinhu chinotsigira mune fomula ine akasimba acids senge lactic, glycolic, uye salicylic, iyo inobatsira exfoliation yakapfava uye ceramide kukurudzira.

Azelaic Acid

Kunyange iyo AHA kana BHA, azelaic acid, inotorwa kubva pagorosi, rye, kana bhari, "ine zvese zvinorwisa mabhakitiriya uye zvinopesana nezvirwere, ichiita mushonga unoshanda wemakonzo kana rosacea," anodaro Jeremy Brauer, MD, muNew York dermatologist . Inobata zvese nekudzika mufollicles, kuuraya chero bhakitiriya mukati mavo uye kubvisa kuzvimba kunokonzerwa nehutachiona. Azelaic acid inogona zvakare "kumisa kugadzirwa kweyakawandisa melanin inokonzeresa nzvimbo dzine rima, makwakwara, uye zvigamba zvisina kuenzana paganda," akadaro Dr. Jaliman. Izvo zvakakodzera kune rakasviba ganda (kusiyana nehydroquinone uye mamwe ma lasers) nekuti hapana njodzi yekunyepedzera- kana hyperpigmentation, uye inogamuchirwa kune vakadzi vane nhumbu uye vanoyamwisa. Ichi chikuru chekuwedzera nekuti "vakadzi vazhinji vane nyaya ne melasma uye breakout dzakatenderedza nhumbu," Dr. Jaliman anodaro. (Heino maitiro ekuburitsa ganda rako nelaser marapirwo uye peels.)

Phytic Acid

Imwe asidi isiri iyo AHA kana BHA, ino yekunze is antioxidant, saka inobatsira kudzivirira kurembera kweganda-kusununguka mahara. Inogonawo kudzivirira blackheads uye shrink pores. "Phytic acid inoshanda nekukwevera calcium, iyo inonyanya kuipa kune ganda," Dr. Gross anodaro. "Calcium inoshandura mafuta eganda rako kubva kumvura kusvika kune wax, uye ndiyo wakisi yakakora inovaka mukati me pores, zvichiita kuti kuve nematema uye kutambanudza pores kuitira kuti aonekwe akakura." (Izvi ndizvo zvese zvaunoda kuti uzive nezvekubvisa matema.)

Tartaric Acid

Iyi AHA inobva kumazambiringa akaviriswa uye inowedzerwa kune glycolic kana lactic acid mafomula kusimbisa kuderera kwavo. Asi bhenefiti yayo yekutanga kugona kwayo kudzora fomula pH nhanho. MaAcids ane mukurumbira wekuita morphing pHs, uye kana akasvetuka akakwira zvakanyanya kana kuderera muchigadzirwa, mhedzisiro ndeye kuputika kweganda," Rouleau anodaro. "Tartaric acid inogona kubatsira kuti zvinhu zvigadzikane." (Yakabatana: 4 Sneaky Zvinhu Zvinokanda Ganda Rako Kureba Balance)

Citric acid

Zvakafanana netartaric, citric acid, iyo AHA inowanikwa zvakanyanya mumarimu uye marimu, zvakare inochengeta mamwe maacid mukati meakachengeteka pH renji. Pamusoro pezvo, inoita senzira yekuchengetedza, ichigonesa mafomura ekuchengetedza ganda kuti agare achiwedzera kutsva. Chekupedzisira, citric acid ndiyo chelator, zvinoreva kuti inobvisa kusvibisa kunosemesa (kubva mumhepo, mvura, uye simbi inorema) paganda. "Citric acid inobata pane izvi zvakasviba kuti zvisakwanise kupinda mukati meganda rako," Dr. Gross anodaro. "Ndinoda kufunga nezvayo sePac-Man yeganda." (PS iwe unofanirwa zvakare kuverenga kumusoro pane yako microbiome yeganda.)

Best Blends

Edza izvi zvigadzirwa zvine asidhi kuti uwedzere kupenya.

• Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Kuburitsa Moisturizer ($68; sephora.com) inozvirumbidza maasidhi manomwe.
• Nzou Dhakwa T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Husiku Serum ($90; sephora.com) inomuka zvakare paunenge wakarara.
• Iyo Yakajairika Azelaic Acid Kumiswa 10% ($ 8; inoshamisa.com) evens toni.
• BeautyRx naDr. Schultz Yepamusoro 10% Exfoliating Pads ($ 70; amazon.com) inotsvedza, inopenya, uye mafemu.
• Dr. Brandt Radiance Resurfacing Foam ($ 72; sephora.com) inopa ganda muyadhi wevhiki nevhiki weasidhi mashanu.

Ongororo ye