Kungofanana Neganda Rakachengeterwa Mannequins?
Zvemukati
Hukama hwefashoni nechimiro chemuviri chinhu chinozivikanwa chakaoma. Hurukuro dzakatenderedza nyaya iyi dzinowanzo reva matambudziko senge kuwanda kwemhando dzakatetepa zvakanyanya mumigwagwa uye mumashambadziro. Asi iyi mifananidzo inokuvadza dzimwe nguva inotarisana nesu mumamiriro ezvinhu epasirese, zvakare, uye pave nenhaurirano nezve mannequins ezvitoro, ayo anowanzo nyanya kuonda kupfuura saizi 2 yave chiyero pakati pemhando. Zvigadzirwa zvakaita seTopshop neOasis zvakatsva gore rino nekuda kwekushandisa kwavo mannequins akaonda zvakanyanya; vatengesi vekuBritain ava vabva vagadzirisa zvichemo, asi zvitoro pasi rese zvinoshandisa zviratidziro zvemahwindo zvine huwandu husingaite hwemuviri.
Maererano ne Muchengeti, "avhareji" mannequin anoyera makubhiti matanhatu pakureba, aine 34-inch bust, 24-inch chiuno, uye 34-inch chiuno, uye akanyanyisa zvakanyanya mhuru, makumbo, uye mawoko. Hazvina maturo kutaura, iko kuchema kuri kure kubva paavhareji mukadzi wechiAmerican size 14 kuvaka (iyo, zvinoenderana nevazhinji vatengesi vakaita saJ. Crew, yakaenzana ne40.5-inch bust, 33-inch chiuno, uye 43-inch chiuno).
Saka nei musiyano mukuru pakati pezvitoro windows uye chaicho? Maererano nenyanzvi, kusiyana uku kunosvika pakushambadzira kwakaringana. Kungofanana nemhando dzakaonda dzinodzika mumugwagwa, chinangwa chemannequins kutengesa hope. Kathleen Hammond, VP weakakosha maakaundi kuNew York mannequin muparidzi weGoldsmith, akatsanangura kuti zvitoro zvinotenga mhando yemanququin iyo ivo vanongotenda kuti inotengesa zvipfeko zvakanyanya. "Models vanofamba kumaraini size 2 kana saizi 0," akadaro."Aya mannequins anoteedzera iyo [chikamu], nekuti vatengesi vanotenda zvinoita kuti chigadzirwa chavo chionekwe chakanakisa." Kunyangwe kufunga uku kuri kwechokwadi, pane yakakosha yekuvhara: Nedanda ravo-rakatetepa mitezo, yakatsetseka-pamusoro miviri, uye makiromita-marefu makumbo, izvi zvidhori zvisina chimiro hazviratidzike sevanhu chaivo zvachose. Mutauriri weOasis akashandisa iro iro zano sekururamisa madhimoni ayo ane nharo ku Refinery29 kutanga kwemwedzi uno. "Mannequins edu ezvitoro akanyorwa zvakanyanyisa kuti amiririre chirongwa chehunyanzvi uye hapana nzira yekuyedza kuratidza huchokwadi hwehupenyu," akadaro.
Kunyangwe mannequins isingazombovhiringika nevanhu chaivo, ivo vachiri vamiriri vembatya, mutengesi, uye mutengi akakodzera. Sezvakataurwa naLisa Mauer wekambani yemannequin Siegal & Stockman, "Iwe unoda kuti mannequin yako iratidze maitiro ekuti unoda kuti mutengesi wako ave ani."
Mauer anotorawo maartist saAlberto Giacometti uye ake akakurumbira akavezwa zvivezwa zvevanhu sekurudziro kushure kwemamonquins 'silhouettes. Uye kana iwe uchifunga kuti mannequins anoda kuve akaonda kune vashandi vekutengesa kuti vagone kuapfeka, izvo handizvo chaizvo zvazviri. Vese Hammond naMauer vakaburitsa pfungwa yekuti huwandu hwemannequin hunokanganisa mashandiro ekutanga. "Mannequins anouya nenzira imwe chete, saka hazvina basa kuti akakura sei kana kuti madiki sei-mannequin yekuwedzera-inokura nenzira imwechete seyakajairika," anotsanangura Hammond. Nekudaro, pane mashoma mabhenefiti akakosha ezviyero zvakawedzeredzwa zvemannequins. Mamiriro avo akakura uye makumbo marefu (kazhinji akakotama zvishoma) anochengetedza bhurugwa kubva pakubatana pasi. Zvakare, iyi miviri yakareba inowanzoita kunge iri nani kubva pamaonero evatengi, ayo anowanzo kuve kubva kumusoro kana pazasi.
Zvinoenderana nechinyorwa chakaburitswa ne Smithsonian Magazine muna 1991, mannequins ave kushoma uye kushoma-kufanana nevanhu mumakore. Nguva pfupi mushure mekunge mannequin yekutanga yakazara-muviri yakaunzwa muFrance muna 1870, zvimwe zvitoro zvakateverawo. Mukati mekupera kwezana remakore rechi19 nekutanga kwezana ramakumi maviri, izvi zvimiro zvemberi zvekuchengetera zvigadzirwa zvakagadzirwa nemisoro yakatwasuka yakatarisa, uye yaive nezvakatsanangurwa senge girazi maziso uye kunyange mawigi (uye mune dzimwe nguva, kunyangwe meno enhema). Yakanga isiri iyo kusvika kuma1920s apo iyo mannequin inogadzira Siegel & Stockman akatanga kushandisa pepa-mache (pachinzvimbo chekare zvinhu senge huni newax) izvo maficha akawedzera kusanzwisisika. Mazuva ano, mannequins anowanzo gadzirwa kubva kuzvinhu zvakaita sepurasitiki uye fiberglass, uye zviso zvavo zvakatsetseka pasina zvimisikidzo-kana vakatombove nemisoro zvachose.
Asi zvakadaro, kana avhareji-saizi mamodheru anotengesa zvimwe zvipfeko, uye chinangwa chemannequins kutora purofiti, saka wadii kumbundira "average" mukadzi mannequin? Zvinoita kunge zvakapusa, tichifunga kuti vatengesi vazhinji vakawedzera mipiro yavo kusvika saizi 4XL - asi vachiri kuramba kubvuma mutengi uyu mumahwindo avo. Zvitoro zvekuchengetera zvave zvichishandiswa kuita chirevo pamusoro pechikadzi, chechikadzi, uye chimiro chemuviri munguva yakapfuura, asi kunze kwemimwe mishandirapamwe inokosha, avhareji-akaenzana mannequins mashoma uye ari pakati nepakati.
Mauer anozviisa kune chokwadi chekuti kune akawandisa emhando dzemuviri dzakasiyana dzekumiririra. Kunyangwe iye (naHammond) vari vaviri vachikurumidza kunongedza kuti zvidiki uye zvakawedzera-mhando mamodheru anotengeswa chaizvo kune vatengesi, kuve neboka reanogara akaenzana mannequins ndiyo inoshanda kwazvo nzira yekutengesa. "Sezvakangoita pamugwagwa, unofanira kuva zvakafanana," akadaro Mauer. "Zvingave zvakanaka kuve nemhando dzese dzemiviri dzinomiririrwa, asi kupihwa nzvimbo shoma muchitoro, kuve nekufanana kwakakosha kune meseji inouya." Izvo zvinoramba zvichionekwa kana kugamuchirwa kwemazuva ano kwevakadzi vane muviri wakakwana pamugwagwa uye mumishandirapamwe kuchashandura kune nzvimbo yekutengesa. Asi nevatengesi vane hunyanzvi, senge dhipatimendi reSweden Åhléns, vachibudirira kuburitsa mannequins akawedzera, pano tiri kutarisira kuti mamwe mabhureki abuda muforoma (chaiko) uye vateedzere.
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