Nei Uchifanira Kuita hanya NeGreenwashing - uye Maitiro Ekuzviziva Izvo

Zvemukati

• Chii chinonzi Greenwashing, Chaizvoizvo?
• Kusimuka kweGreenwashing
• Iko Kukanganisa kweGreenwashing
• Iwo Makuru Red Flags eGreenwashing
• 1. Inoti "100 muzana inogadzikana."
• 2. Zvinotaurwa hazvina kujeka.
• 3.Hakuna chero zvitupa zvekusimudzira zvirevo.
• 4. Iyo kambani inobata zvigadzirwa zvayo seinogadziriswazve kana kuora.
• Ungaita Sei Kuti Uve Anotarisira Mutengi uye Gadzira Shanduko
• Ongororo ye

Kunyangwe iwe urikutsvaira kutenga chigamba chitsva cheanoshanda chipfeko kana cheupscale nyowani chigadzirwa chigadzirwa, iwe ungangodaro utange kutsvaga kwako nerondedzero yezvinofanira-kuva nezvimiro zvakareba seizvo iwe waunotora kuenda kune realtor uchitsvaga imba. mapaundi ekurovedza leggings angangoda kuve squat-proof, ziya-kukwenya, chiuno chakakwirira, kureba kwemakumbo, uye mukati mebhajeti. Serum yekumeso ingangoda dermatologist-inogamuchirwa zvigadzirwa, acne-kurwisa zvikamu, hunhu hwekunyorovesa, uye saizi-inoshamwaridzika saizi kuitira kuti uwane nzvimbo mune yako tsika.

Zvino, vatengi vazhinji vari kutora "yakanaka nharaunda" kune avo runyorwa rweakakosha hunhu. Mune ongororo yaApril yakaitwa neLendingTree yevanopfuura chiuru chevanhu vekuAmerican, makumi mashanu neshanu evanhu vakapindura vakati vaive nechido chekubhadhara mari yakawanda pazvinhu zvinochengetedza zvakatipoteredza, uye zvikamu makumi mana nezvina zvemakore ane chiuru zvakashumwa zvichidonhedza mari yakawanda pazvigadzirwa zvine hunyanzvi kupfuura nakare kose. Panguva imwe cheteyo, nhamba iri kukura yezvinhu zvevatengi iri kudada nezvikwereti zvekuchengetedza pamapakeji avo; muna 2018, zvigadzirwa zvakatengeswa se "zvinoramba zviripo" zvinoumba 16,6 muzana yemusika, kubva pa14,3 muzana muna 2013, maererano netsvakiridzo kubva kuNew York University's Stern's Center for Sustainable Business.

Asi zvinopesana netsumo yekare, nokuti unozviona, hazvirevi kuti unofanira kuzvitenda. Sezvo kufarira kweruzhinji mune eco-hushamwari zvigadzirwa zvinokura, ndozvinoitawo tsika yegreenwashing.

Chii chinonzi Greenwashing, Chaizvoizvo?

Zvichitaurwa zviri nyore, kugeza greenish ndiko apo kambani inozviratidza pachayo, yakanaka, kana sevhisi - kungave mukushambadzira kwayo, kurongedza, kana chirevo chemishoni - sekunge kune zvakawanda zvinobatsira pane zvakatipoteredza kupfuura zvazviri chaizvo, anodaro Ashlee Piper, kusimudzira nyanzvi uye munyori we Ipa Sh t: Ita Zvakanaka. Rarama Zvirinani. Sevha iyo Planet. (Tenga Izvo, $15, amazon.com). "[Inoitwa ne] makambani emafuta, zvigadzirwa zvekudya, mhando dzembatya, zverunako, zvekuwedzera," anodaro. "Inonyengera - iri kwese kwese."

Case in point: Ongororo yakaitwa muna 2009 yezvigadzirwa 2,219 muNorth America izvo zvakaita "green claims" - kusanganisira hutano nerunako, imba, uye zvigadzirwa zvekuchenesa - zvakaona kuti 98 muzana vaive nemhosva yekuwacha. Mishonga yemazino yainzi "zvese zvakasikwa" uye "yakasimbiswa organic" pasina humbowo hwekuitsigira, masiponji ainzi "pasi-ane hushamwari," uye mafuta ekuzora achinzi "'zvakasikwa" - izwi rinofungidzirwa nevatengi. zvinoreva "yakachengeteka" kana "girinhi," izvo zvisiri izvo nguva dzose, maererano nekudzidza.

Asi izvi zvirevo zvechokwadi zvese zvakakura here? Pano, nyanzvi dzinokanganisa kukanganisa kwekusvibisa kwemakambani kune vese makambani nevatengi, pamwe nezvamunofanira kuita kana muchizviona.

Kusimuka kweGreenwashing

Kutenda kune internet, social media, uye kutaura kwekare-kwe-muromo, vatengi mumakore achangopfuura vave vakadzidza zvakanyanya pamusoro pezvakatipoteredza uye zvemagariro evanhu zvakabatanidzwa nekugadzirwa kwezvinhu zvevatengi, anodaro Tara St. James, muvambi we Re: Source (d), ipuratifomu yekutaurirana yekusimudzira nzira, cheni yekugovera, uye machira ekutsvaga mukati meindasitiri yemafashoni. Imwe nyaya yakadai: Gore rega rega, indasitiri yemachira, iyo kugadzirwa kwembatya inomiririra zvingangoita zvikamu zviviri muzvitatu, inovimba ne98 miriyoni matani ezviwanikwa zvisingadzoreki - zvakaita semafuta, fetiraiza, uye makemikari - kugadzirwa. Mukuita uku, matani bhiriyoni 1.2 emagasi egreenhouse anoburitswa mumhepo, kupfuura ndege dzese dzepasi rose uye kutakura zvikepe zvakasanganiswa, sekureva kweEllen MacArthur Foundation, rubatsiro rwakanangana nekumhanyisa shanduko kuenda kuhupfumi husina tsvina. (Ndicho chikonzero chimwe chete nei zvakakosha kutengera zvipfeko zvinobatika.)

Ichi chinyowani chitsva chakasimudzira kuwedzera kudiwa kwezvakagadzirwa zvine mutsigo zvigadzirwa uye mabhizimusi mamodheru, ayo makambani pakutanga aifungidzira kuti angave epfupi, niche maitiro, anotsanangura. Asi fungidziro idzodzo dzakarira dzisiri dzechokwadi, anodaro St. James. "Zvino zvatinoziva kuti pane mamiriro ekunze ekukurumidzira, ndinofunga kuti makambani ave kutanga kuzvitora zvakanyanya," anodaro.

Iko kusanganiswa kweyepamusoro mutengi kudiwa kwe eco-inoshamwaridzika zvigadzirwa uye zvigadzirwa 'zvinongoerekana zvaita kuti zvigare - zvichireva kugadzira uye kugadzira nenzira isingapedze pasi uye huwandu hwevanhu zviwanikwa - zvakagadzira izvo zvinonzi St. James "yakakwana". dutu "yekuwacha green. "Makambani iye zvino aida kupinda mubandwagon asi pamwe vaisaziva kuti sei, kana kuti vaisada kuisa nguva uye zviwanikwa kuita shanduko dzinodiwa," anodaro. "Saka vakatora tsika idzi dzekutaurirana zvinhu zvavari kuita, kunyangwe vangave vasiri kuzviita." Semuenzaniso, kambani inoshanda yezvipfeko inogona kudana ma leggings ayo "inogoneka" kunyangwe iyo iine 5 muzana yepolyester yakadzokororwa uye inogadzirwa zviuru zvemamaira kubva kwairi kutengeswa, ichiwedzera kabhoni yembatya. Rudzi rwekunaka rungangoti miromo yaro yemuromo kana mafuta ekuzora anogadzirwa nezvinhu zvakasanganiswa "eco-yakanaka" kunyangwe iine mafuta emuchindwe - izvo zvinoita kuti kutemwa kwemasango, kuparadzwa kwenzvimbo kune zvisikwa zviri mungozi, uye kusvibiswa kwemhepo.

Mune zvimwe zviitiko, kushambadzira kwekambani kuri pachena uye kuchinangwa, asi kazhinji nguva, St. James anotenda kuti zvinokonzerwa nekushaikwa kwedzidzo kana kupararira kusingazivikanwe kwemashoko asiri iwo mukati mekambani. Muindasitiri yemafashoni, semuenzaniso, dhizaini, yekugadzira, uye yekutengesa uye yekushambadzira inowanzo shanda zvakasiyana, zvakanyanya kuita sarudzo hazviitike kana mapato ese ari mukamuri imwechete, anodaro. Uye kudamburwa uku kunogona kugadzira mamiriro anotaridzika zvakanyanya kunge mutambo wakaputsika wefoni. "Ruzivo runogona kusanganiswa kana kusatumirwa zvisirizvo kubva kuboka rimwe kuenda kune rinotevera, uye nenguva yarinosvika kubazi rekushambadzira, meseji yekunze haina kunyatsoenderana nekuti yakatanga sei, ingave ichibva kubazi rekusimudzira kana dhipatimendi rekugadzira," anodaro St. James. "Kusiyana neizvozvo, dhipatimendi rekushambadzira rinogona kunge risinganzwisise zvavari kutaura kunze, kana kuti vari kushandura meseji kuti iwedzere 'kunakidza' kune zvavanofunga kuti mutengi anoda kunzwa."

Kuwedzera dambudziko iri inyaya yekuti hapana yakawanda yekutarisa. Iyo Green Trade Commission maGreen Guides anopa hutungamiri hwekuti vatengesi vangadzivise sei kutaura zvakatipoteredza izvo "zvisina kunaka kana zvinonyengera" pasi peChikamu 5 cheFTC Act; zvisinei, ivo vakapedzisira kuvandudzwa muna 2012 uye havatarise nezvekushandiswa kwemazwi ekuti "kuenderera" uye "zvakasikwa." FTC inogona kukwidza zvichemo kana mushambadzi akataura zvisirizvo (funga: kutaura chinhu chakasimbiswa nemunhu wechitatu kana chisina kana kudaidza chigadzirwa "chinoshamwaridzana neozone," izvo zvinoburitsa zvisirizvo kuti chigadzirwa chakachengeteka. mhepo izere). Asi zvichemo gumi nematanhatu zvakamhan'arwa kubvira 2015, iine gumi nerimwe chete mumaindasitiri erunako, hutano uye mafashoni.

Iko Kukanganisa kweGreenwashing

Kudaidza nzvimbo yekudzidzira "yakasimba" kana kuisa mazwi ekuti "zvese zvakasikwa" pachiso chekunyorovesa kumeso kungaite kunge NBD, asi kuwachisa green kunonetsa kumakambani nevatengi. "Inoita kuti pave nepfungwa yekusavimbana pakati pevatengi nemhando, uye saka mabhureki ari kuita izvo zvaanoti ari kuita zvino ari kuongororwa nenzira imwecheteyo nemabhureki asiri kuita chero chinhu," anodaro St. James. "Ipapo vatengi havazovimba nechero chinhu - zvirevo zvechitupa, zvirevo zvekutengeswa kwekutengeswa, zvirevo zvezvirongwa zvekusimbaradza - uye zvinoita kuti zvinyanye kuomera shanduko inogona kuitika muindasitiri." (Yakabatana: 11 Sustainable Activewear Brands Yakakodzera Kuputsa Sweat In)

Pasina kutaura, zvinoisa mutoro kumutengi kuti atsvage chiratidzo kuti aone kana zvakatipoteredza zvichibatsira kuitisa kwake kuri pamutemo, anodaro Piper. “Kune isu vanoda chaizvo kuvhota nedhora redu, zvinova zvimwe zvezvinhu zvakakosha zvatinokwanisa kuita sevanhu, zvinonetsa kuita sarudzo dzakanaka idzi,” vanodaro. Uye nekutenga zvigadzirwa usingazive kubva kuchiratidzo chine mhosva yekugeza green, uri "kuvabatsira kuti varambe vachiwacha nekusvibisa mvura yekusimudzira nerutsigiro rwako rwemari," anowedzera St. James. (Imwe sarudzo yakanaka yaungaite nedhora rako: Kuisa mari mumabhizinesi ane vashoma.)

Iwo Makuru Red Flags eGreenwashing

Kana iwe uri kutarisa kune chigadzirwa chine zvimwe zvingangoita kunge zvimisikidzo, iwe unogona kazhinji kutaura kuti zvakasvinwa zvakasvibirwa kana iwe ukaona imwe yeaya matsvuku mireza. Iwe unogona zvakare kutarisa kune isingabatsiri Remake kana iyo app Yakanaka pauri, ese ari maviri anoyera mafashoni emhando zvinoenderana nekusimudzira kwemaitiro avo.

Uye kana uchiri kusava nechokwadi kana kuti uchingoda rumwe ruzivo, usatya kubvunza nekupikisa makambani nezve maitiro avo (kuburikidza nesocial media, email, kana snail mail) - kungave kuri kubvunza kuti ndiani akaita mutambo wako uye kupi kana huwandu chaihwo hwepurasitiki yakadzokororwa inoenda muhombodo yako yekushambidza kumeso, anodaro St. James. "Hakusi kunongedza zvigunwe kana kupa mhosva, asi kukumbira kuzvidavirira uye kubuda pachena kubva kumhando uye kupa mutengi simba rekuziva zvakawanda nezve magadzirirwo ezvinhu uye kwazvinogadzirwa," anotsanangura kudaro.

1. Inoti "100 muzana inogadzikana."

Kana paine huwandu hwenhamba hwakanamatira pachigadzirwa, sevhisi, kana kambani inochengetedza chirevo, pane mukana wakanaka wekuti iri kucheneswa, anodaro St. James. "Hapana chikamu chakatenderedza kusimba nekuti kusimudzira hakusi chiyero - inguva yeamburera yeakasiyana nzira dzakasiyana," anotsanangura. Rangarira, kugadzikana kunosanganisira kugara uchichinja nyaya dzakatenderedza magariro, basa, kusanganisa, kutambisa nekushandisa, uye nharaunda, zvichiita kuti zvisakwanise kuverengera, anodaro.

2. Zvinotaurwa hazvina kujeka.

Matauriro asina kujeka akadai se "akagadzirwa kubva kuzvinhu zvakagadziriswa" kana "akagadzirwa kubva muzvinhu zvakadzokororwa" zvakadhindwa neushingi pazvipfeko zvekutsika ma tag (epurasitiki kana pepa tag raunobvisa mbatya mushure mekunge watenga) zvakare chikonzero chekuchenjerera, anodaro St. James. "Kunyanya kana uri kutarisa zvipfeko zvekushanda, zvakakosha kuti usangotarisa izvo hang tag inotaura nekuti inogona kungoti 'yakagadzirwa kubva kumabhodhoro epurasitiki akadzokororwa,' uye zvinoita kunge zvakanaka," anodaro. "Asi kana iwe ukatarisa pazita rekutarisira, rinogona kuti zvikamu zvishanu kubva muzana zvepolyester uye 95 muzana yepolyester. Izvo zvishanu kubva muzana hazvina simba guru."

Izvozvowo zvinoenda kumazwi akafara se "girini," "zvakasikwa," "zvakachena," "eco-hushamwari," "kuziva," uye kunyange "organic," anowedzera Piper. "Ndinofunga unoona nezvigadzirwa zvekunaka izvo mamwe makambani [anozvitengesa se]" runako rwakachena "- izvo zvinogona kureva kuti kune mashoma makemikari ekuisa mumuviri wako, asi hazvireve kuti maitiro ekugadzira kana kurongedza kuri eco -shamwari, "anotsanangura. (Yakabatana: Ndeupi Musiyano uripo Pakati Peakachena neakasikwa Runako Zvigadzirwa?)

3.Hakuna chero zvitupa zvekusimudzira zvirevo.

Kana anoshanda wekupfeka brand achiti nguvo yavo inogadzirwa kubva ku90 muzana organic kotoni kana yerunako chiziviso ichiti i100 muzana kabhoni isina kwayakarerekera isina kupa chero humbowo hwekuitsigira, tora izvo zvirevo netsanga yemunyu. Kubheja kwako kwakanyanya kuve nechokwadi kuti aya marudzi ezvekutaura ndeechokwadi kutsvaga zvitupa zvakavimbika zvechitatu, anodaro St. James.

Nezve zvipfeko zvakagadzirwa kubva ku organic donje uye mamwe mafirita echisikigo, St. James anokurudzira kutsvaga Global Organic Textile Standard Certification. Ichi chitupa chinoona kuti machira anogadzirwa neinosvika makumi manomwe muzana muzana yakasimbiswa michero yehupenyu uye mamwe mamiriro ezvehutano uye ezvemabasa anosangana panguva yekugadzirisa nekugadzira. Kana dziri mbatya dzine zvinhu zvakashandiswazve, Piper anokurudzira kutsvaga kweEcological uye Recycled Textile Standard chitupa kubva kuEcocert, kambani inoongorora chaiyo muzana yezvinhu zvakashandiswazve mumucheka uye kwainotorwa kubva, pamwe nezvimwe zvirevo zvemamiriro ekunze zvinogona kuita ( funga: muzana yemvura inochengetwa kana CO2 kuchengetedza).

Fair Trade zvitupa, senge Fair Trade Certified kudomwa kubva kuFair Trade USA, ichaonawo kuti hembe yako inogadzirwa mumafekitori anozvipira kusimudzira zvivimbiso zvevashandi zvepasi rose, kupa rubatsiro rwakakura kuvashandi, kuita basa rekudzivirira uye kudzoreredza nharaunda uye ramba uchishanda uchienda kukuchenesa (aka kushoma kukuvadza) kugadzirwa. Zvezvigadzirwa zverunako, Ecocert zvakare ine chitupa chezvekuzora uye zvechisikigo zvizorwa zvinodaidzwa kuti COSMOS izvo zvinovimbisa kugadzirwa nekugadzirisa zvine hushamwari, kushandiswa zvine hunyanzvi kwezviwanikwa, kusavapo kwepetrochemical ingredients, nezvimwe.

FTR, mazhinji mabhureki ane izvi zvitupa zvekunze ari kuzoda kuzviratidzira, anodaro Piper. "Vachave vanojekesa kwazvo nezvazvo, kunyanya nekuti zvitupa zvese zvinogona kudhura kuwana uye kutora nguva yakawanda, saka vanozove neavo vanozvikudza pamapakeji avo," anotsanangura. Zvakadaro, izvi zvitifiketi zvinogona kuve nemutengo uye zvinowanzoda nguva yakawanda nesimba kuti zviishandiswe, izvo zvinogona kuita kuti zviome kumabhizimusi madiki kuzvirova, anodaro Piper. Ndipo pazvinenge zvakakosha kusvika kune brand uye kubvunza nezve zvavanoti, zvinhu, uye zvigadzirwa. "Kana iwe ukabvunza mubvunzo kuyedza kuwana mhinduro kutenderera kugadzikana uye ivo vari kukupa iwe unoshamisa legalese semhinduro kana zvinongonzwa sekunge havasi kupindura mubvunzo wako, ndinotamira kune imwe kambani."

4. Iyo kambani inobata zvigadzirwa zvayo seinogadziriswazve kana kuora.

Nepo St. James aisazoenda kusvika pakutaura chigadzirwa chinozvirumbidza chekudzokorora kana biodegradability ine mhosva yegreenwashing, chinhu chinofanira kuziva kana uchitenga seti nyowani yepolyester activewear kana chirongo chepurasitiki chekirimu inorwisa kuchembera. "Izvi zvinopa pfungwa yekuti mucherechedzo une basa zvakanyanya kupfuura zvaungadaro," anotsanangura kudaro. "Muchirevo, zvichida zvinhu zvinoshandiswa mujasi iri zvinogona kushandiswa zvakare, asi mutengi anozviita sei zvakare? Ndeapi masisitimu aripo munharaunda yako? Kana ndiri kutendeseka kwauri, hapana zvakawanda."

ICYDK, chete hafu yevaAmerican ndivo vanokwanisa kuwana otomatiki kudzokorodza uye 21 muzana chete ndivo vanokwanisa kudzikisira mabasa, sekureva kweThe Recycling Project. Uye kunyangwe kana marisheni ekushandisazve aripo, zvinodzokororwa zvinowanzo shatiswa nezvinhu zvisina kugadziriswazve (funga: mashanga epurasitiki nemabhegi, midziyo yekudyira) nemidziyo yekudya yakasviba. Muzviitiko izvi, hombe batch yezvinhu (kusanganisira zvinhu izvo aigona kudzokororwa) inoguma yapiswa, kutumirwa kumarara, kana kusukwa mugungwa, maererano neColumbia Climate School. TL; DR: Kurasa chigadziko chako chisina chinhu chechizoro chemaoko mubhini yakasvibira hazvireve kuti ichaputswa uye kushandurwa kuita chimwe chinhu chitsva.

Saizvozvo, chigadzirwa "chinogadzikana" kana "chinogadzirwa nemafuta" aigona kuve zvirinani kune zvakatipoteredza pasi pemamiriro ezvinhu akakodzera, asi vanhu vazhinji havana mukana wekugadza komputa, anodaro Piper. "[Chigadzirwa] chingaenda kunorasirwa marara, uye marara anozivikanwa nekuziya nenzara yeoksijeni nemavirusi uye nechiedza chezuva, zvinhu zvese zvakakosha kuti kunyange chinhu chinogadzirwa nemidziyo chiora," anotsanangura. Tisingatauri, inoisa mutoro wekukanganisa kwezvakatipoteredza kune mutengi, uyo zvino anofanira kufunga kuti angarasa sei chigadzirwa chavo kana chasvika kumagumo ehupenyu hwacho, anodaro St. James. "Mutengi haafanire kunge aine mutoro iwoyo - ndinofunga inofanira kunge iri mhando," anodaro. (Ona: Maitiro Ekugadzira Compost Bin)

Ungaita Sei Kuti Uve Anotarisira Mutengi uye Gadzira Shanduko

Mushure mekunge maona zvimwe zvezviratidzo zvemitambo kana shampoo iri kucheneswa, chiito chakanaka chaunofanira kutora ndechekudzivisa kutenga chigadzirwa kusvikira kambani yachinja maitiro ayo, anodaro St. James. "Ndinofunga zvinhu zvakanakisa zvatingaite kufa nenzara izvo zvigadzirwa zvemari yedu," anowedzera Piper. "Kana iwe uchinzwa kunyanya muratidziri-y uye uine nguva uye bandwidth, zvakakodzera kunyora tsamba inoteedzana kana email kune director wekambani yekusimudzira kana yemakambani manejimendi mutariri paLinkedIn." Mutsamba iyoyo inokurumidza, tsanangura kuti unofungidzira zvirevo zvechiratidzo uye udane pairi kuti upe ruzivo rwakakwana, anodaro St. James.

Asi kutenga zvigadzirwa zvechokwadi zvine hunyanzvi uye kudzivirira ma dupes hazvisi izvo chete - kana zvakanakisa - fambisa zvaunogona kuita kudzikisa tsoka yako. "Chinhu chine mutoro zvikuru icho mutengi anogona kuita, kunze kwekutenga chero chinhu, kuichengeta zvakanaka, kuichengeta kwenguva yakareba, uye kuona kuti yapfuudzwa - kwete kuraswa kana kutumirwa kune marara," anodaro St. James.

Uye kana iwe uri pasi uye uchikwanisa kugadzira bvudzi rako masiki kubva pakutanga kana kusimudzira zvipfeko zvako zvinoshanda, kunyange zvirinani, inowedzera Piper. “Kunyangwe zvichifadza kuti vanhu vanoda kutenga zvakachengetedzeka, chinhu chakanakisa chatingaite kutenga zvinhu zvakamboshandiswa kana kusatenga zvinhu,” anodaro. "Haufanire kuwira mumusungo wekuti utenge nzira yako mukugadzikana nekuti haisiriyo mhinduro."

Ongororo ye